East coast

I apologize for the long gap between posts.  I have almost zero perception of time, and I love it.  

I left Florida and headed up the east coast.  I had my sites on the outer banks but knew I needed a stop inbetween.  This ended up being myrtle beach...  There was a state park just south of the main drag and I settled there in a primitive camp site.   

The tent attracted a lot of attention here and I ended up talking to a Canadian fellow for quite a bit and he invited me to his camp fire.   Apparently alcohol is forbidden in any SC state park, so I funneled my yuenglings into an empty Arizona ice tea can I had then headed over.  He was from perry sound Ontario and was an avid sailor/kayaker.   We swapped stories a bit then with the start of some rain I headed back to my site.  

The next day I headed straight up the coast.   I had never realized how many small rivers dumped into the Atlantic along here.   Each bridge I passed I felt the urge to hope in a boat and explore.  Unfortunately that wasn't an option for me. 

When venturing from the south to the outer banks you have to take a two and half hour ferry from cedar island to okarakoke island.  Since this was not peek season, ferrys were spaced out three hours apart.  I arrived right after the ferry departed so I had some time to kill.  I put my 8wt rod together and tried to fish.  This turned out to be a bust so I just explored the beach.  

Finally the ferry arrived and I headed back to the truck.  

On the ferry! 

You can really see my elegant gorilla tape job I did on the cover.   It's held up since Texas! 

On the ferry I met a very nice couple from California, out on the open road, exploring the same as I.   The husband was not only an avid VW fan but also a past 356 owner!  

The ferry schedule really through me off and I arrived at Frisco state park around 9pm and set up camp.  This park is located right in the sand dunes on the ocean side of hatteras.  

Morning brought a stiff breeze and the unmistakeable smell of ocean to my tent.  I took the mountain bike out early in search of a diner since I was craving a big hardy breakfast.   To my surprise none were open.  I guess it still wasn't "in" season yet.  

I headed to the beach!   I do like the ocean, but only in moderation.  Many things can dealt pain and or kill you in it and I always think there may be a tsunami on the horizon.   All things I never worried about on my body of water growing up.   But the smell, the constant surf, and endless beaches really appeal to me.  

After some exploring on the beach I was able to play on some boards! 

The water was not a bad temp at all. There were also numerous dolphins swimming just past the break.  

That night, numerous beers on the beach and a literally, stellar night sky, capped off a great outer banks visit.  

The next morning I got in contact with my old buddy Travis, who used to stay at our cottages, and had breakfast with him in kittyhawk nc.   

I B lined it for central virginia after that.  I had heard there were some fish in the mountains along the blue ridge parkway. On the way I went through some very nasty thunder/hail storms, and after seeing multiple tornado warnings I thought it wise to hotel it that night.   I found myself in Lynchburg VA.  I found a hotel near downtown and since it was Friday night I'd hoped to indulge in some night life there.  I met a few college kids from California at my hotel, they were there for a wedding the next day and in the same boat as myself for the evening. They kindly let me tag along with them to the TWO bars in town...  Needless to say if you are looking to get rowdy at some bars in central VA, skip Lynchburg.  None the less it was a fun night and I made some new friends!  I also got to sleep in a bed and have a hot shower!   

The next day was beautiful and I headed into the mountains.   This part of the country is just beautiful and to my surprise still a bit wild.  I stopped at a parking area for the Appalachian trail to check out the Tye river.   It was a stunning river but nearly void of fish!   Also completed about one hundred yards of the Appalachian trail!  

 

It was the first time in a week I got to put my waders on, so I was happy about that.  

I talked to some fishermen further up stream who informed me that pretty much the time to catch is right after they stock it because most people keep the fish and there are literally almost none left.  They did give me a suggestion to try out the Piney river that had small native brook trout in it. They gave me directions and I was off.  The first turn was a bit discouraging. 

But then I got into the mountains.  The houses started disappearing, the river ran right along the road, and numerous primitive camping sites could be found all around. 

I picked one site way up stream and started to explore.  

With in five minutes I had hooked in a beautiful native brook trout! 

They got a bit larger

And a bit smaller. 

It was all on drys.  And you had to be quite a bit sneaky.   I had a blast catching these fish til night fall.  

I made one the MREs my roommate mike gave me and was spoiled with the desert.

Delish.  

The next morning I headed up and over the mountain towards the blue ridge park way.  The single lane dirt road I was on switch backed up and down the mountain.   Following a small stream that had an epic falls.  

I fished a bit in the area then got on highway 60 heading west.  I crossed under the blue ridge parkway and followed the road to rt81.  This descent on highway 60 was amazing and if you like banked twisty roads like I do, search this one out.

Next I hit the Jackson river, north of Covington VA.  While there I chatted it up with a few fishing guides who were fishing on their day off.  I asked about other va rivers to hit and potential West Virginia rivers.  Both guides told me to skip WV and head south to the south holston  river in north eastern Tennessee. Having no real timeline, I shot for it.  

I will end it there for the evening.  

Sunshine state. Sort of.

After I had fished for a while, with only one strike from a sea trout, I headed back to make dinner at my camp at fort Pickens.  During which a bunch of teenage kids pulled into the spot next to me.  The tent site there was pretty moist already and they began to set up their tents.   The kids soon realized that one of the tents they brought did not have poles in the bag.  Realizing their predicament I offered up the eureka two person tent that I had brought with me for emergencies.  They were thankful and took up the offer, I helped them set it up. 

Well around eight pm it began to ran...  We had a stellar thunderstorm to start off the night, with some less than a second boomers!   Then it just started down pouring.   And kept raining.  Since it wasn't very windy and the sheer volume of rain coming down, it started collecting on my roof.  Every two hours I was using my feet to pick up the ceiling of the tent and dump out the water.  I was staying fairly dry in the middle of the tent but then the wind started.   I had closed all the windows but by this time every thing was saturated.  I peeked out my window around 7am to see that the teenagers site had about twelve inches of water in it.  Both tents, including mine were collapsed and under water.   They had all retreated to their vehicles, undoubtably waiting for a break in the weather as I was in the tent atop my truck.   I stayed in my 3'x3' space of dryness reading my book and checking the radar regularly.  Around ten the kids packed and split, leaving my tent in a huge wet ball underneath my truck.   I needed to be out by noon and around eleven I decided to pack up in the rain.  It was still pouring seventeen hours after it had begun and I packed up everything soaking wet.  I hopped in the showers then started off the island. 

Kind of a poor pic but you can see the tempest, which had also left about eight inches of standing water on the road for about three miles.  My bicycle was not happy after that salty event.  

I had to decided it wise to head straight for my good buddy pattys place in talahassee. He is down there completing his masters at Florida state, and kindly offered his warm, dry, home to me for the holiday weekend.  

When I arrived I took everything wet out of the truck and set it out dry.  The worst parts were the foam mattress pads from the tent camper.  Everything else dried quickly.   

We set out that night to a fine establishment called bull winkles.  Where you pay ten bucks, they give you a cup, and then drink all you want.   I really think this needs to catch on every where. After too many G&Ts we headed to the local late night food spot and got a "box", which consisted of chicken fingers, Texas toast, special sauce, and cole slaw, simply amazing.  

The next day patty took me on a tour of the campus. It was a beautiful place!  

The tour took me to the football stadium as well.  

After which we spent a few drooling over the women's doubles sand volley ball tourney taking place and patty took me through his lab where all the magic happens.  

That night we hit up a local music festival, played bocci, drank a deadly tequila drink, and got another "box" to finish off the evening.  

As you can expect Sunday was spent doing nothing but recuperating.  Well and drinking bloodies, mimosas, and watching lots of hockey and movies. 

Thank you so much patty for the hospitality!!  I had a blast there and hope to visit again soon.  

I left this morning and decided to head due east towards Jacksonville.  When I was about seven, dad, Todd, and I drove down to Florida for spring break; one of the places we camped at was a state park called fort clinch right on the Georgia/Florida border.   I set my sights on this.   

My phone gave me the option of taking 95 north out of Jackson or a1a along the coast.   I took the coast.  I stopped at food truck along the way and the server told me it was one on the top ten beautiful drives in Florida.  She was right. 

Diving in and out of tree covered roads you received glances of the ocean.  It was a perfect day as well which just added to the magnificence.   

I arrived at fort clinch, got a camp site, then headed to the beach to have a few beers in the sun and waves.  

The change in weather was much appreciated.   After staying an hour on the beach I went to go set up my tent which was on the river side.  I also set up my fly rod in hopes of maybe catching a fish.  I walked out to the backside beach and noticed the tide was fiercely going out.  Signs littered the beach warning of currents.   I tossed a few out with no luck and just decided to wander for a bit.  I 

Then headed back to return here for sunset.  

I planned to take out my bike, since it needed some cleaning and maintenance, then use that to check out the fort and view the sunset.  

 

Didn't take long and I was out on the trails.  I stopped off at fort clinch and instantly remembered it from when I was a child. 

Then I watched the sunset with some yuengling and passer by dolphins.  

This pic reminded me of home. 

Well that's it for the evening.  My tentative plans now are to head up the coast and jump over to the outer banks.  But my plans change hourly haha.  

Heading south

I ended up sleeping at a truck stop, but with beautiful clear skies was able to see the blood moon!  I left very early, sleeping in the cab of a Tacoma when you are my size is a painful and frivolous venture.  After I headed due north into the ozark mountains.  

I was able to watch the sun rise over this area and I must say it is a beautiful place!   Tight winding roads, constantly climbing and descending.   One of the places I really wish I had a motorcycle.  

I stopped in at a local fly shop to get some info on the river.  Willie, a big grizzly man entertained me with some fly suggestions and fish stories.  He also warned me of the fairly inconsistent water flows.  Apparently they let water out of the damn according to the power usage of the area.  So wade fishing was pretty much impossible until one ish, after the water flow was cut down.  I took my time getting to the camp ground below the damn because of this.  

When I arrived I stopped at the guard station and just my luck they were closed Tuesday and Wednesday!  Another campground freebee!!!  I set up shop right next to the river and saw how high and fast the river was.  It was also funny to see a different type of fly fisherman. On this river most people use a long skinny flat bottom boat with 25hp outboards. When the levels are high it's all nymphing. There was a constant buzzing of boats traveling up the river and drifting down.  I figured the fish must not be too timid with that racket going on constantly. Back to the fishermen/women themselves; unlike the pretentious patagoochi filled rivers of the west, most of these people seemed to be of the lower middle class.  Beat up boats, raggedy camo jackets, most smoking cigarettes, but with fly rods in hand and having a stellar time.   I got a feeling of relief that this sport wasn't as 1% as I had stereotyped it from my experiences out west.  

The water level eventually dropped and I headed out on the water.  And it really dropped!!! About four feet, revealing a river that was easy to wade and spot fish. They were rising all over.  Hitting very small midges. I caught two nice browns then it died down.  I tied on a dry dropper with some of the killer zebra midges willie recommended and got into a bunch of rainbows. 

My fishing buddy for the day was this guy, who almost caught as many as I did. 

The sun began to set and I heard the sirens for water release, so I headed in. 

That was on one of the many rock islands that be way under water in about fifteen minutes.  

It was a fairly chilling and windy evening and I called it in early for the night.  

The next day I decided I was tired of sleeping in the cold and high tailed it for the gulf coast.  

Crossing the mighty Mississippi near Memphis.  

Mile after mile heading south, it got warmer and greener!  I didn't think I could make to the coast before nightfall so I set my sites on desoto national forest in southern Mississippi.   When I arrived in the little town of Brooklyn Mississippi, I asked the gas station attendants if there was any campgrounds or primitive spots in the area.   Both had lived in the area their whole lives and had not a single clue.  They told me it wouldn't be wise to just camp down a trail in the woods but reccommended sleeping under the town bridge.  Their baffling comments on the woods made me a little nervous so I headed towards the town bridge.  Once there I immediately recognized it as the designated drinking spot for all the town degenerates.  I knew this because it looked like a spot that I would love to hang out and drink at. I was considering sleeping there until I came upon a sign that said "keep out, the rebles tertory", spelled exactly that way in very sloppy cursive.  They teach cursive here I thought!!  Then decided this was an unwise place to camp.  

I ventured into the forest and that was not any more appitizing.  It looked as though all scary movies were derived from this one national forest in Mississippi.  I told my dad that with the windows down I could actually smell skunk ape, the down south version of Bigfoot that apparently emits a pungent stench.  I decided that even if I hit the coast in the dark it would be a better if not safer place to lay my head.  To paraphrase what  my buddy joe told me, you don't have to worry about animals; people are a different matter.  

I got to a state park in deloxi MS around eight and made camp.   Again the office was closed.  It was the first night I broke out my thirty degree sleeping bag and it felt great!!  I got in contact with a fly fishing guide who gave me some pointers for wade fishing in my next destination, pensicola Florida.  

When I left the guard station was still empty, so I snaked out of paying for another campground!  I headed east on i10 towards the sliver of Alabama then onto Florida.  After passing mobile I was on a long bridge where I spotted a real World War Two battleship.  I hit the next exit to go check it out.   It was the USS Alabamba and was a memorial park/museum.   There were plenty of planes and tanks set up on display as well so I had to go in and check it out.  You can tour the whole battleship unassisted!   I spent a good hour wondering above and below deck, a great experience for a war buff such as my self.  

16" rounds! 

You could go in everything!!  I truly wished my brother and dad were there to experience it with me.  

They also had an air museum as well as submarine you could walk through.  That was tight and a bit frightening.  

They had just rolled out this puppy as well. 

I headed to fort Pickens state park.  It's a long, white sand island just south of pensicola.   I had to pay for a campsite this time, but it was worth it for showers!!   It was an overcast day but temps in the seventies, so no complaints!  I spent day fishing in the flats but with no luck.   I had one fish flash my fly and I assume it was a sea trout, but no bites.  I will dive in again tomorrow!  

Dream stream, oysters, snow

Right before I went to bed last night I noticed a few freshly gutted turkey remnants adjacent to where I had set up camp.  Some one had killed them that day and left the heads, guts, and plenty of feathers all over the side of the trail.  I wasn't too concerned since I was sleeping above the ground.  

There was a solid layer of ice encasing my truck an tent that morning.   I got out and sure enough something had come in the night and took every bit of the turkey remnants except for the feathers.  

I started heading for the dream stream the game Warden had told me about. It was about three mile connector stream between two resevoirs and apparently large cutthroat traveled up from the lower resevoir.  

I was driving through a cloud most of the way.  Then I appeared in a large plain like opening.  

And here is the dream stream.. 

Honestly, it was not how I pictured it the night before while going to bed.   To me, a great fishery is one not only full of stellar fish, but also surrounded by breath taking, eye candy, scenery.   Granted, it was super windy, cloudy, and snowing, so maybe the landscape encased by the elements was breath taking and just hidden from me.  Needless to say it was an amazing fishery!!!  Huge cutthroat stocked up in every hole!   

Because of the weather I was nymphing, with the wind gusts, that even proved to be a challenge.  Not to much of an obstacle though. 

I even caught a bunch of these mountain sucker fish things. 

Some larger than the cuttys.   

I ran into the only other fishermen on the river and chatted it up a bit.  They told me on any normal weekend day there would be over twenty trucks in parking lot.  I guess the weather scared then away, I'm not complaining.  

I left around one and was unsure if I should head south or west onto beuna vista.  I stopped in a very small town called Hartsel, where I ventured into a resturant/bar to grab some lunch.   Only two patrons were at the bar and seemed to be of the local variety.  The bar tender was a young bearded man wearing a civil war style cap, just like the one that you would often see me wearing in my younger days.  I asked if he had any food suggestions after I ordered a beer, and with out even thinking he said Rocky Mountain oysters...  Now I learned what these were when I was a kid, watching one of those food eating challenges on tv.   At first I thought it to be some kind of joke to play on the outa town folk.  Then the man to my right said they were his favorite and pointed to the plate in front of him.  They didn't look too bad.  Served on fries with a home made green chile sauce smothered on top.   The bartender then proclaimed "they're harvested locally!", and I decided it wouldn't be an adventure with out diving into the local flavors and placed my order.   It truly was a pretty delicious meal.  They were cut in strips and deep fried so I guess they couldn't taste that bad!   

After hearing that beuna vista had already gotten a couple inches of snow, I decided to drive due south towards canon city.  

And that is what I drove into.  White out conditions most of the way.  I think my bike hated it more. 

The storm wasn't letting up so I said the heck with it, got on interstate 25 and headed to New Mexico.  

After checking my map with the weather maps, I decided on sin city New Mexico, Las Vegas!!   Not much to my surprise, this was nothing like the Las Vegas everyone knows.   There was one camp ground on a resevoir near by and I decided to check it out.  The primitive camping was in a field, cost $10, and was not shelted at all from the blasting wind.  I set my sites on the national forest to the west of town.  Just before you get into the canyon you pass into a town called montezuma which holds an amazing castle like building that is now a united world college, what ever that means.  Here is a link to some pics http://www.stephencodrington.com/UWC/USA.html 

I drove up the step winding canyon that did hold a fairly size able stream in it.  But the road took me higher and higher away from it.  Every spot I thought I could sneak down had no trespassing signs.  When I could see the the stream it looked as though it must be some ones private fly fishing playground.   I was in no mood to get shot at or arrested so I carried on up the canyon looking for a camp spot.  For being a national forest, it had no trails or dirt roads.  This made camping seem impossible.  Finally a few miles in I called it quits and camped on a small pull off on a side road.   

I awoke to the fluffy stuff. 

I was totally warm and dry in the tent all night!  I certainly didn't want to get out of it though.  I suddenly remembered passing a hot spring in montezuma on my way up, so I packed up and headed down the snowy canyon to get in the water!  

It was totally empty, not surprising being 7:30 in the morning.  So I put on my swim trunks and hustled across the snowy road armed with my soap and shampoo. 

Since this was such a small town I think only locals ever used them. A bonus, it was totally free!!  The top pool you see in the pic was so hot I couldn't even acclimate my legs to it, so I just stayed in the second pool.   First bath in five days was a very refreshing thing.  

After that I loaded up and hit the road.  I knew this was to be a big driving day since I was going to shoot right across New Mexico, into the Texas panhandle, then through Oklahoma.   An area I had planned not to stop in and for good reason; there really isn't anything there. 

I did stop in armadillo at the Cadillac ranch, as per my dad's suggestion.  I left my mark on the first car.  

In this 14 hour driving spree from New Mexico to Arkansas I had a few hiccups. The first being in New Mexico when I locked my only keys in the car.  I had mentally prepared for this before I left and purposely left the rear sliding window unlocked so I could climb through from the truck bed if I did happen upon this scenario.  The thought was easier than the actual process.  My truck was loaded to brim. So I spent a good ten minutes unpacking stuff so I could crawl up to the window.  But the placement of my tv prevented my body from fitting through.  So I put some inside out gorilla tape donuts on my spinning rod and some how managed to stick my keys and get them out. It truly was a miracle.  

Next came about thirty minutes after I left gas station.  There was a very strong north east wind blowing, making driving pretty difficult.  All the sudden my truck started to bump and severely slow down. I looked in my mirrors and noticed my tent cover flopping around.  I pulled over to find out the years of weather elements and this excessive wind, had shredded the top middle of the cover.  So again I broke out the gorilla tape and really taped her down.  This lasted til my destination in Arkansas.  I will have to think of an easy repair for this later on in the week. 

Now I am near ozark arkasanas.  Plan on heading into the ozark mountains in the morning and fishing the white river. But I am setting my alarm for early in the AM so I can see the lunar eclipse because it is a beautiful, clear night here!